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Où et quand: 2007-08-16 - Autre Version (L')

Général: Valeur: Ambiance: Service: Nourriture:

This is a very nicely decorated restaurant, however as you can buy everything there it felt a bit like a showroom - all the plates were different for almost every single dish, which at times felt like a parade rather than a meal. The food was nicely cooked, and the more toned down dishes (Duck with artichoke and hazelnut or scallop, shrimp and chorizo) very competent, though nothing had that elusive 'wow' factor. What was most off-putting, and the reason we won't be returning, is that they clearly don't know where to stop - dishes such as salmon gravadlax 'nacho style' was a confused concept and confused mix of flavours; the fois gras starter was totally dominated by the rasberry sauce; and who would call a dish 'unilateral salmon'? The final straw was when asking for a bottle of water it arrived with a fluorescent blue light underneath the bottle. Clearly all these details, in the food and the decor, are intended to be progressive and cool. What it ends up being is slightly kitsch, chi-chi and at times ridiculous. The chef clearly needs to be reigned in a little, and the more restrained dishes are far more successful, and classy, than dishes such as a fois gras lollipop. Seriously.
Commentaire soumis 16 août 2007
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